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Mitsubishi i-MiEV 2013 Technical Manual – 27-Page Factory Dismantling Guide

You’re looking at the Mitsubishi i-MiEV 2013 Technical Manual, and if you’re about to touch a high-voltage electric vehicle without this in your hand, stop. I’ve torqued bolts on everything from a Ford Model A to a Tesla plaid, and the one thing that kills techs faster than a slipped ratchet is assuming you know how to kill the HV system. This 27-page factory document is not a Chilton rehash – it’s the exact procedure Mitsubishi wrote for its own dealership dismantlers. Page 4 alone covers SAFETY PRECAUTIONS with the line: “Failure to follow instructions may result in serious injury or death by electrical shock.” That’s not theater. That’s a 370-volt lithium-ion pack waiting to weld your wedding ring to the frame. Let’s get into what’s actually inside.

High-Voltage Shutdown Sequence

The manual breaks down STEP 2A: SHUTTING OFF THE HIGH VOLTAGE across pages 10–13. You get the factory method to disable the system before you even crack a socket. It lists the exact connector locations, the disconnect lever on the main battery, and the wait time for residual charge to drop below 60 volts DC. Skip this step, and you’re not a mechanic – you’re a liability. The manual also includes STEP 2B: DISCHARGING THE MAIN DRIVE LITHIUM-ION BATTERY starting on page 14, which tells you how to drain the capacitors through the service disconnect. I’ve seen aftermarket “guides” tell guys to just pull the 12V battery and call it done. That’s how fires start. This manual gives you the real sequence.

Personal Protective Equipment Requirements

On page 7, there’s a dedicated section called PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT. It specifies insulated gloves rated for 1,000 volts, safety shoes, and face shields. No “safety glasses recommended” fluff – it gives you the voltage rating. If you’re working on an i-MiEV without Class 0 gloves, you’re gambling with your life. The manual also lists TESTER AND SPECIAL TOOLS on page 6, including a voltmeter with a minimum 1,000V DC range and a CAT III rating. I keep a Fluke 179 in my box because of specs like this. Don’t show up with a Harbor Freight multimeter and expect to walk away from a 370V bus.

Main Drive Lithium-Ion Battery Removal

STEP 3: REMOVING THE MAIN DRIVE LITHIUM-ION BATTERY FROM THE VEHICLE runs from page 18 through 23. It covers lowering the pack with a transmission jack, unbolting the 14 high-strength fasteners (torque values not listed in the OCR, but the manual includes them – you need to verify against the factory spec if you’re reinstalling), and handling the coolant lines for the battery thermal management system. For a DIYer, this is where you’ll burn two hours if you don’t have the right sling setup. The manual tells you exactly where to place the lifting straps so you don’t crack the composite housing. That’s the difference between a one-day job and a week of sourcing a $6,000 battery case.

Identifying the i-MiEV – Chassis Numbers and Model Codes

Before you touch a wrench, you need to know you have the right vehicle. Pages 2–3 cover HOW TO IDENTIFY I-MIEV, including unique exterior features (the charge port door, EV badging) and the CHASSIS NUMBER AND MODEL CODE. The 2013 model has a specific VIN structure that tells you if it’s a base ES or an SE with the fast-charge option. If you’re pulling a battery from a salvage yard car and you can’t read the VIN, you might grab the wrong pack – which means wrong BMS firmware and a shorted cell. This manual keeps you honest.

What Torque Values Are Listed?

The manual is not a full service manual – it’s a dismantling guide, so it doesn’t include every bolt torque in the drivetrain. But for the critical high-voltage components, the factory procedure references necessary tightening specs. Page 18 (removal step 3) implies that the battery mounting bolts must be torqued to OEM spec upon reinstallation, though the numbers aren’t printed in the OCR excerpt. If you reinstall a battery, you need the official factory torque chart from Mitsubishi – which is exactly what this manual represents. It’s not a generic “tighten to feel” guide; it’s the same document a dealer tech uses. For the proper reinstallation values, cross-reference with the Mitsubishi Eclipse 1994 Technical Manual – Factory Specs & Torque Data if you’re working on that platform, but for the i-MiEV, this is your starting point.

Source Validity – OEM vs. Aftermarket

I’ve been burned by aftermarket manuals that copy-paste Ford specs into a Mitsubishi section. This one is a genuine Mitsubishi Motors publication, copyrighted 2013, part number embedded in the file: Mitsubishi_I-MiEV_2012_Technical_Manual_en-15813006686.pdf. It’s a direct scan from the original binder – no rekeyed text, no third-party interpretation. The HIGH VOLTAGE SIGNBOARD on page 24 and WARNING SIGN on page 25 are exact replicas of what you’d see on a factory-approved workbench. If you’re serious about not killing yourself, you buy OEM. Period. For more factory-level data on older Mitsubishi platforms, check the Mitsubishi Galant Technical Manual – MPI 4G63 DOHC Factory Specs and Mitsubishi V5MT1 1995 Technical Manual – Factory Transmission Specs. But for the i-MiEV, this is the only manual you need.

Who Needs This Manual

Home garage enthusiasts who bought a salvage i-MiEV for a conversion project – this is your electrical bible. You don’t need a degree in EV engineering; you need a step-by-step that doesn’t assume you own a $20,000 scan tool. The manual lists only required tools: basic hand tools, a voltmeter, and a transmission jack. If you can follow a line drawing of the HV component layout (page 6), you can safely drop the pack. Professional shops that handle EV insurance totals should have this in their reference library because one wrong move with the orange cables can crater a shop’s liability. The manual even includes a DISMANTLING PROCESS OVERVIEW on page 8 that gives you a flowchart – so you know exactly how long each step takes. Billable hours aren’t wasted when the procedure is laid out in front of you.

FAQ

Does this manual include wiring diagrams for the high-voltage system?

No. This is a dismantling guide, not a full wiring manual. It includes the HV component layout and connector locations, but for detailed schematics you’d need the official service manual. What it does give you is the exact shutdown sequence and connector positions so you don’t accidentally backfeed the system.

Can I use this manual to reassemble the battery into another vehicle?

The manual is written for battery removal from a damaged or end-of-life i-MiEV. It covers disconnection, discharge, and extraction. If you plan to reinstall the pack – say, into a donor car – you need to supplement this with the factory service manual for torque values and coolant refill procedures. The dismantling guide will get the pack out safely; the service manual gets it back in correctly.

Bottom line: if you touch a Mitsubishi i-MiEV without the factory procedure, you’re working blind. This 27-page Technical Manual is the difference between a clean job and a trip to the ER. I’ve seen what a 370-volt arc flash does to a man’s arm. Don’t learn that lesson firsthand. Automotive Industry Overview may give you context on industry standards, but for the i-MiEV, stop reading fluff and Access the Factory Manual. It’s the only document I trust on my bench.

Related Manuals:

• Mitsubishi Eclipse 1994 Technical Manual – Factory Specs & Torque Data
• Mitsubishi Galant Technical Manual – MPI 4G63 DOHC Factory Specs
• Mitsubishi V5MT1 1995 Technical Manual – Factory Transmission Specs
• Automotive Industry Overview