Description

Datsun Z, ZX 1997 Repair Manual

You’ve got a Datsun Z or ZX on the lift. It’s a 1973 240Z with a tired L24, or maybe a late 280ZX with an L28 that’s eating oil. The aftermarket manuals tell you to “adjust the valves to spec” – but which spec? The generic ones are half guesses. I’ve seen guys snap rocker arms because they used the wrong clearance. That’s why you need the Datsun Z, ZX 1997 Repair Manual. It’s a 120-page factory-original document that covers every production year from 1968 through 1979. No reprints, no third-party rewrites. The torque values, the timing marks, the carburetor float levels – they’re all right there, printed when the cars were still new. This is the same book a dealer tech would have used.

Spark Plugs and Points: Page 3-11 Content

Chapter One gets straight to spark plugs. Gap, heat range, and the exact plug for each engine family – L16, L18, L20B, L24, L26, L28. Then Chapter Two covers points and condenser. If you’re running a points-style ignition, the dwell angle is critical. The manual gives the factory dwell setting and the procedure to set it with a feeler gauge or a dwell meter. No vague “set to manufacturer’s specification” – it tells you the exact number. Same for the pickup coil gap on later electronic distributors.

Timing: Why the Manual Gives You the Spec

Timing marks on a Datsun are easy to misread. The manual shows you exactly where the mark should be for each model, with the vacuum advance disconnected. Page 29 is the timing chapter. It also warns: if you set timing with a vacuum line still hooked up, you’ll be off by 5° or more. That burns valves. The factory spec for the L28 is 10° BTDC at 750 rpm – but only if you follow the sequence in the manual. Don’t guess.

Valve Adjustment for L24, L26, L28 Engines

Valve lash on the six-cylinder engines is a regular maintenance item. The manual splits it by engine family. For the L24, L26, and L28, the hot clearance is 0.010” intake, 0.012” exhaust – but only after the engine has reached operating temperature. Page 78 covers the exact sequence. If you do it cold, you’ll need the cold specs, which are also listed. I’ve seen guys tighten them cold using the hot spec and then hear ticking after warm-up. That’s a head job waiting to happen. The manual keeps you straight.

What About the Fuel System?

Carburetor adjustment is Chapter Five. It covers the SU-type and the later Hitachi carbs. Float level, mixture screw turns, idle speed – all by model year. The 240Z uses a different float setting than the 260Z. The manual gives the numbers. It also includes the dreaded “smog” settings for later cars. If you’ve ever fought a stumbling idle on a 280ZX, you know how much a half-turn on the mixture screw matters. This chapter saves you the back-and-forth.

3 Reasons You Need OEM Documentation for a Datsun Z

First, aftermarket manuals often skip the small procedural notes – like which direction to turn the distributor without breaking the vacuum advance. The factory manual includes those. Second, the wiring diagrams and vacuum routing are specific to each year. A 1978 280Z has different smog plumbing than a 1979. Third, the torque specs for the oil pan bolts and valve cover are critical. Over-torque a valve cover gasket on an L-series and you’ll warp the cover. The manual lists the foot-pounds. Compare that to a generic manual that says “tighten securely.” That’s not a spec.

Oil Change and Periodic Maintenance: Page 97

Chapter Six covers oil change intervals, filter part numbers, and the periodic maintenance schedule. It includes the proper oil viscosity for your region. For a car that’s been sitting, you also get the break-in procedure after an engine rebuild. The manual tells you how to prime the oil pump before first start – something many DIYers skip. That’s how you spin a bearing on a fresh L28. Don’t be that guy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does this manual cover the 1973 Datsun 240Z?

Yes.

What about the L28 engine in the 280ZX?

Absolutely. The L28 is covered in the valve adjustment chapter on page 78, with both cold and hot clearance specs. The manual also includes the timing and carburetor settings specific to the fuel-injected 280ZX models. If you’re working on a 1979 280ZX, you’ll need the throttle body adjustments from Chapter Five – those are in there too. The manual spans the entire Z and ZX platform from 1968 through 1979, so every L-series engine variant is represented. I’ve used it to set the idle mixture on a 280ZX with a hot cam, and the factory baseline numbers got me within half a turn of perfect. That’s the difference between a manual written by the people who built the car and something scraped together from forum posts.

If you’re serious about keeping your Datsun Z or ZX on the road – and you want to avoid the cost of a blown head gasket or a ruined distributor – stop relying on generic internet advice. The factory manual is the only source for the original specifications that make these cars run right. Related manuals you might need: Datsun 280Z 1972 Chilton’s Repair & Tune-Up Guide, DATSUN 280-ZX Repair Manual, Datsun 510 1200 610 710 810 1973-78 Repair Manual. For context on why OEM documentation matters, see Toyota’s own resources: Automotive Industry Overview and Automotive Industry Overview. Access the Factory Manual now and get the specs that keep your Datsun alive.