Description

Mazda RX-7 1987 Workshop Manual

Listen, if you’re about to tear into a 1987 Mazda RX-7, you need the factory book. Not a Chilton, not a Haynes, not some PDF scraped off a forum. I’ve been turning wrenches since 1995, and I’ve seen more botched rotary rebuilds than I care to count. The #1 cause? Guys using aftermarket torque specs or skipping the factory bleed sequence on the cooling system. This manual stops that.

Every time I train a new kid, I tell them: the manual is your third arm. This one is 1072 pages of Mazda Motor Corporation’s own data—printed July 1987 in Japan. It covers the RX-7 from 1985 through 1991, but the core is the ’87 model. You get the exact same information that dealer techs used when these cars were new. No generic approximations.

Mazda RX-7 1987 Workshop Manual: 1072 Pages of Factory Data

Before you crack open a rotor housing, understand what’s in this binder. The table of contents starts with General information (section G), then Pre-delivery inspection and scheduled maintenance (section 0). From there it goes straight into the Engine section (section 1) and Lubrication system (section 2). The book is organized the way a real shop works: you hit the engine first, then cooling, fuel, electrical, drivetrain, chassis, body. Each section has its own sub-index. Need the coolant capacity? That’s in the Technical data section (section 30). Want the special tool list for pulling an apex seal? Section 40. This is not a puzzle—it’s a roadmap.

Engine and Lubrication Systems: Sections 1 and 2

The Engine section is where most of you will live. Rotary engines eat torque specs for breakfast. The manual gives you the actual tightening sequence for the rotor housing bolts, the eccentric shaft nut, the oil pan bolts—all in foot-pounds and inch-pounds. Section 2, Lubrication system, covers the oil pump pressure test and the metering oil pump adjustment. I’ve seen too many DIYers snap off a banjo bolt because they thought “tight enough” was good enough. Factory spec is factory spec for a reason: the aluminum housings won’t tolerate guessing. The manual also lists the recommended oil viscosity for San Antonio summers—not that you asked, but 20W-50 is your friend.

Fuel and Emission Control: EGI Turbo vs. Non-Turbo (Sections 4A and 4B)

This is where the 1987 RX-7 splits into two animals. Section 4A covers the Fuel and emission control systems (EGI) for the non-turbo engine. Section 4B is the turbo version. If you own a Turbo II, you need 4B—the boost control solenoid, the intercooler routing, the wastegate actuator diagnostics. The wiring diagrams inside these sections are model-specific. Don’t mix them up. The manual includes the pressure regulator test procedure and the exact fuel pump flow rate at 12 volts. One page I flag constantly is the injector pulse-width check (section 4A, page 26—no, I won’t give you the number, find it). That page alone has saved me three hours of head-scratching on a no-start.

Transmission, Clutch, and Drivetrain: Sections 6-9

Transmission work on these cars is straightforward if you have the factory clearances. Section 6 covers the clutch—flywheel runout limit, pressure plate bolt torque, release bearing installation. Sections 7A and 7B are manual and automatic transmissions respectively. The manual transmission page shows the synchro spring gap specs. I’ve rebuilt three of these gearboxes using nothing but this manual and a set of snap-ring pliers. The Cooling system (section 3) includes the thermostat rating and the fan clutch engagement temperature. And the Electrical system (sections 5 and 15) gives you the charging system test at idle and the full body harness routing. If you’re chasing a parasitic drain, start with the interior light circuit diagram on the wiring diagram page—yes, there’s a separate wiring diagram section at the end.

Why Use the OEM Wiring Diagram?

The manual states clearly: “A new wiring diagram style has been beginning with the ’88 RX-7. Therefore, electrical circuit diagrams in this workshop manual may not be the same as in the wiring diagram.” That means you get the diagram that matches your car’s production date. Aftermarket wiring books often cobble together multiple years. This one is year-correct. Use it. I’ve seen a guy short out his whole dash because he used a ’90 diagram on an ’87 car. Don’t be that guy. For later-year diagrams, grab the Mazda RX-7 1994 Wiring Diagram—it’s a separate manual. And if you need the later service procedures, the Mazda RX-7 1993 Service Manual covers the ’93 model. For a completely different engine family, the Mazda Z5 1994 Workshop Manual – OEM Factory Specs is available too.

Technical Data and Special Tools: Sections 30 and 40

Section 30 is the cheat sheet. All the specs in one place: compression ratios, valve clearances (well, rotor tip clearances), fluid capacities, torque values, bulb types, tire pressures. Section 40 lists the special tools Mazda designed for this car—like the eccentric shaft lock tool and the oil seal installer. You can probably improvise, but the tool numbers are there if you want to order them. The manual also includes the jack and safety stand positions (section G-6) and the vehicle lift points (section G-7). I’ve had lift failures because some kid put the pad on the floorpan. Don’t do it. Use the points shown. For a broader look at how manufacturers standardize these procedures, see the Automotive Industry Overview on common lifting practices. And if you’re curious about how the gears inside the manual transmission work, the Manual Transmission article explains the theory—but this manual gives you the exact stack heights.

FAQ

Does this manual include the 1987 Turbo II model?

Yes—section 4B covers the turbo EGI system and all turbo-specific components including wastegate and intercooler.

Why should I buy an OEM manual when free ones are available online?

Free PDFs often miss pages, have blurry diagrams, or contain aftermarket specs that don’t match Mazda’s tolerances. I’ve seen a free manual list the oil pan torque as 15 ft-lb when the factory spec is 8 ft-lb—that’s enough to warp the pan on a rotary. This is the official Mazda Motor Corporation publication, printed in July 1987, with all 1072 pages intact. You get the same information a dealer tech had. No missing pages, no cross-model contamination, no guesswork. The investment pays for itself the first time you avoid a stripped thread or a misdiagnosed no-start.

Bottom line: if you’re working on a 1987 Mazda RX-7, you need the factory manual. Period. I don’t care how many YouTube videos you’ve watched—the torque sequence for the rotor housing bolts is not a suggestion. Access the Factory Manual and keep it on your tablet or print the pages you need. Your engine will thank you.