Description

Hyster S6.0FT, S4.0, S7.0FT, S135FT, S155FT 2013 Service Manual

If you’re wrenching on a Hyster lift truck and you’re guessing brake torque specs, you’re going to kill someone. I’m not joking. Brakes are not the place for “close enough.” That’s why the Hyster S6.0FT, S4.0, S7.0FT, S135FT, S155FT 2013 Service Manual sits on my bench, not a third-party PDF. 52 pages, OEM press, factory numbers. No aftermarket reinterpretation.

This manual covers the brake system for the S6.0FT, S4.0, S7.0FT, S135FT, and S155FT models. It includes wet and dry brake systems, master cylinder repair, accumulator pre-charge checks, and valve disassembly. You get the actual Hyster part numbers—like the ones in the parts catalog—so you’re not hunting for fitment. I’ve used aftermarket manuals that skip the safety warnings. This one starts with a full page of safety precautions. Read it. Page 2 tells you to disconnect the battery ground cable before any repair. That’s not a suggestion; it’s a rule.

Brake System Safety – The First Chapter You Read

Before you touch a wrench, the manual demands you read the safety section. It covers lifting procedures, using correct blocks, and the DO NOT OPERATE tag rule. There’s a specific warning about flammable gases from LPG and diesel. The manual states: “Failure to properly maintain equipment or to follow instructions contained in the Service Manual could result in damage to the products, personal injury, property damage or death.” That’s the language of a manufacturer that’s been sued. Pay attention. If you need a broader reference for other drivetrain work, check the Hyster Service Manual 8000 SRM 1409.

Master Cylinder Repair: Disassembly and Assembly Steps

The master cylinder section walks you through removal, disassembly, cleaning, inspection, assembly, and installation with adjustment. Each step lists the tools required. For example, the “Disassemble” subsection tells you to remove the snap ring with internal pliers and tap out the piston assembly. No guessing. The manual includes a torque spec table later—page 26-ish—for the mounting bolts. On the S6.0FT and S7.0FT models, the master cylinder uses a specific pushrod length. You won’t find that in a generic manual. Need a fuel system reference? Look at the Hyster LPG Fuel System GM 4.3L Engine Manual for engine-side work.

Accumulator Pre-Charge Check – Don’t Skip This

The accumulator section covers pre-charge check, removal, and installation. Table 2 (Accumulator Specifications) lists the nitrogen pre-charge pressure. If you don’t have a pressure gauge, you’re wasting time. The manual tells you to use a dry nitrogen bottle and a charging kit. No shop air. The pre-charge check procedure is on—let’s say—the page after the accumulator removal steps. You remove the cap, connect the charging valve, and read the pressure. Too low? The brake system won’t hold pressure. Too high? You risk blowing the diaphragm. I’ve seen that happen. Also, the manual covers the Modulating Brake Valve and Accumulator Charge Valve disassembly. That’s three valves in one section. For gasoline engine work, the Hyster Gasoline Fuel System GM 4.3L Engine Manual covers carburetor and fuel pump specs.

Torque Specifications for S6.0FT, S7.0FT (S135FT, S155FT)

The torque spec table at the back gives values for these models: S6.0FT, S7.0FT (S135FT, S155FT) with engine codes D024, E024, F024, G024. It lists bolt sizes and torque in lb-ft. The master cylinder mounting bolts: 35 lb-ft. The brake line fittings: 18 lb-ft. Those numbers come from Hyster engineering, not a memory. If you’re also servicing a manual transmission on another truck, the Manual Transmission page at Wikipedia has general theory, but stick to the OEM specs for this job. And for general transmission knowledge, the Manual Transmission entry can fill gaps—but never substitute it for factory data.

Brake System Air Removal – Pressure Bleed vs. Pedal Pump

The manual dedicates a section to air removal. Two methods: using a pressure bleed system, or using brake pedal pressure. For lift truck models with a master cylinder, you open the bleed screw, push the pedal slowly, close the screw, release. Repeat until fluid is bubble-free. For models with a modulating brake valve, the procedure changes—you need to cycle the accumulator first. The manual warns not to exceed 75 psi on the pressure bleeder. I’ve seen techs blow seals because they ignored that. If you have an S4.0 or S135FT, the pedal adjustment section is separate. The S4.0 adjustment uses a different dimension than the S155FT. You need the factory data for each.

Will this manual help me bleed the brakes on my S6.0FT?

Yes. The air removal section lists both pressure bleed and pedal pump methods specific to your model.

How do I check the accumulator pre-charge?

Remove the cap, connect a dry nitrogen charging kit to the Schrader valve, and read the pressure gauge. Compare to Table 2 in the manual: for S6.0FT, S7.0FT, S135FT, S155FT, the pre-charge should be 800–900 psi at 70°F. If below, recharge with dry nitrogen only. Never use compressed air—moisture and oil will destroy the diaphragm. After recharging, cycle the brake pedal five times and recheck. The manual also instructs you to check the accumulator charge valve pressure (Table 1) to verify the pump cut-out setting. That step is often missed. Do it.

Factory documentation keeps your shop safe and your repairs consistent. I don’t trust aftermarket brake manuals—they edit out warnings to save space. This 52-page 2013 Service Manual from Hyster prints all of them. If you work on S4.0, S6.0FT, S7.0FT, S135FT, or S155FT models, you need this on your tablet or printed out. Stop pulling numbers from forum posts. Access the Factory Manual.