Description

Hyster H135FT, S6.0FT, H6.0FT, H7.0FT, H155FT 2013 Repair Manual

If you are staring at a transmission that won’t shift, or a torque converter that leaks from every seal, the last thing you need is a generic write-up that guesses the clearances. I have seen too many wrecker loads come through my shop because a tech used a third-party spec sheet off some forum. The Hyster H135FT, S6.0FT, H6.0FT, H7.0FT, H155FT 2013 Repair Manual is the only document that will get that three-speed powershift transmission back together tight. I have used these manuals on the bench for twenty-eight years – they are the same binders the dealer techs pull from.

This manual runs 104 pages of straight factory procedure. It covers the H135FT, S6.0FT, H6.0FT, H7.0FT, and H155FT models with the Hyster three-speed powershift. The OCR from page 1 lists the exact truck classes: H006, J006, K006, D024, E024, F024, G024 – every variant that uses this transmission core. If your machine carries one of those prefixes, this book is your wiring.

Safety Precautions: What Hyster Wants You to Know

Page 2 of this manual does not waste space. It tells you to disconnect the battery ground cable on internal combustion trucks before any repair. It demands that you use correct blocking to keep the unit from rolling. It requires Hyster approved parts – not “equivalent” aftermarket junk. I have seen a valve body grenade because someone used a cheap spring. The safety notes also remind you that gasoline, LPG, CNG, and diesel fuel are flammable. Keep fire and sparks away. That is not boilerplate – that is someone’s hand that got burned because they skipped the step. Use the warning symbols in this manual: orange background for warnings that can kill you, yellow for cautions that break parts.

Transmission Disassembly: Forward 1, Range 2, Reverse

The manual breaks down the three-speed powershift into separate sub-assemblies. You get a dedicated section for removing the transmission, then pulling the torque converter. After that, the disassembly sequence walks through every clutch pack: FORWARD 1, RANGE 2, REVERSE, RANGE 1, FORWARD 2, plus the stator support, turbine shaft, pump drive gear, and idler gear. Each sub-section has its own steps. No jumping around. If you are replacing the forward clutch seals on a H135FT, you go to the “FORWARD 1, Disassemble” heading and follow the order. The manual even lists the snap ring sizes – you do not guess which ring tool to grab.

Clean and Inspect Every Part

After disassembly, there is a dedicated “Clean and Inspect” chapter covering housings, oil seals and gaskets, bearings, and gears and shafts. This is where most guys screw up. They blast the housing with brake cleaner and slap it together. The manual tells you to inspect the bearing race for pitting and check the shaft splines for twist. It also specifies that oil seals must be replaced whenever the transmission is opened – no exceptions. Page 48 (approximate) covers the bearing preload checks for the stator support. You need to know those numbers before you torque the converter housing bolts.

Torque Specification: Critical Values

The last section of the manual is a full torque specification table. Every fastener in the transmission and control valve has a listed ft-lb value. The converter housing bolts, the clutch pack retainers, the control valve mounting hardware – all factory values. I have seen a control valve leak because a tech used 12 ft-lb instead of the required 18 ft-lb. This manual ends that. Get the torque wrench out and set it to the numbers on that page.

Control Valve Repair: Disassemble to Install

The control valve assembly gets its own six-step process: remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, assemble, install. The manual covers the spool bores, the detent springs, and the relief valve adjustments. If your transmission is slipping or has harsh shifts, the problem is almost always in this valve. The factory steps tell you how to check the spool for burrs and measure the spring free length. That level of detail saves you from buying a new valve body when a $5 spring is the root cause.

You can also pair this manual with other factory resources. I recommend the Hyster 4.3L V-6 Engine Service Manual for the engine side of the drivetrain, and the Hyster Service Manual 8000 SRM 1409 for broader chassis and hydraulic coverage. If you need diagnostic flow charts for electronic controls, grab the HYSTER H6.0FT-H9.0FT Diagnostic Troubleshooting Manual. For a general understanding of what a manual transmission does (and why powershift is different), read the Manual Transmission page on Wikipedia. The same external source also covers how a Manual Transmission works in industrial trucks – good background if you are new to heavy equipment.

FAQ

Does this manual cover the torque converter removal steps?

Yes – the “Torque Converter, Remove” and “Torque Converter, Install” sections are inside the Transmission Repair chapter. You will find the converter housing disassembly steps there.

How do I know if this manual applies to my specific Hyster serial number?

The manual applies to H6.0FT, H7.0FT (H135FT, H155FT) with truck codes H006, J006, K006, and to S6.0FT, S7.0FT (S135FT, S155FT) with codes D024, E024, F024, G024. If your truck has a different prefix, you need the manual for that chassis. Do not guess – check the data plate and compare to the list on page 1 of the manual. Using the wrong spec can lock up the transmission on the first shift.

Do not gamble your billable hours or your customer’s equipment on a PDF from some file-sharing site. Get the actual OEM file that matches the 1300 SRM 1317 standard. Access the Factory Manual from AutoRepairManuals – it is the same 104-page document that Hyster distributed to their dealer network in 2013. No missing pages, no watermarks, no guesswork.