Datsun 510, PL521 Workshop Manual (1968-1973) – 250 Pages

Description

You’ve got a Datsun 510 or PL521 that needs a rebuild, and you’re not sure where to start. I’ve torqued enough head bolts to know that guessing costs you time and gaskets. This Haynes manual—Datsun 510, PL521 Workshop Manual—is what you need on the bench next to your torque wrench. It’s not a factory Nissan book, but it’s the next best thing for a home garage mechanic who wants to get it done without blowing a hole in the block. 250 pages of procedures, torque specs, and wiring diagrams that have kept these cars on the road since 1974.

Engine Disassembly and Reassembly: Step-by-Step

The manual covers the 1.3L (1296 cc), 1.4L (1428 cc), and 1.6L (1595 cc) engines used in the Datsun 510 and PL521 models. Page 2 lists every variant: 2-door sedan, 4-door sedan, wagon, and the li’l Hustler pickup. Each engine section walks you through pulling the head, torquing the head bolts in sequence, and checking ring end gaps. I always tell guys to use a beam-style torque wrench on these old engines—click-types get lazy. The manual gives you the exact ft-lb figures, but I’m not pulling them from memory. You’ll find them in the engine chapter.

Torque Specs and Tolerances: What the Manual Provides

One thing I hate is a manual that says “tighten securely.” This Haynes book gives you real numbers. For the 1.6L, the cylinder head bolts get torqued in three stages. The crankshaft pulley bolt? That’s a high-torque item. You need a socket that fits, not a crescent wrench. The manual also lists valve clearances and oil pump specs. If you are doing a rebuild, grab a copy of DATSUN Workshop Manual 1972 – Section: Conversion Tables to double-check inch-to-metric conversions. The manual uses imperial units for the North American market, but the thread pitches are metric—that’s where mistakes happen.

Fuel System: Carburetor Adjustments for the 1.6L

The Hitachi carburetor on these cars is simple if you have the right procedure. The manual walks you through float level adjustment, mixture screw settings, and idle speed. Page 3 explains how to read the manual’s layout—troubleshooting steps first, then the fix. I’ve seen guys flood a carb because they skipped the initial bench setting. Follow the book: set the float level to 0.26 inches. That number came from Nissan originally, and Haynes got it right. If you need a deeper dive into electrical diagnostics, check Datsun 510 Workshop Manual for the factory wiring schematics—this Haynes version has basic diagrams, but the factory book is clearer for the later models.

Brake System: Drum and Disc Overhaul

The 510 sedan has front discs, the PL521 pickup has drums all around. This manual covers both. You get brake shoe adjustment specs, master cylinder rebuild sequence, and wheel cylinder bleeding procedure. Bleeding these old two-pot calipers can be a pain if you don’t have a pressure bleeder. The manual shows a two-person method that works every time. Use DOT 3 fluid and don’t let the reservoir drop below half. Safety warning: never reuse old copper washers on the banjo bolts. The manual doesn’t stress it enough, but I’m telling you now—replace them.

PL521 Pickup: Differences from the 510 Sedan

The li’l Hustler shares the same drivetrain, but the frame and suspension are heavier. Page 2 lists the PL521 as a separate model. The manual points out where the pickup has different spring rates, load capacities, and shock absorber specs. If you’re doing a brake job on a PL521, the rear axle uses different wheel cylinders than the sedan. The manual’s step-by-step procedure for the rear brakes applies to both, but you need to verify the part numbers. Always cross-reference with a parts catalog before ordering. For the sedan, look at Datsun 510 1969-1973 Workshop Manual—it covers the electrical system in more detail for the later years.

Source Authenticity: Haynes Aftermarket vs. Factory OEM

I’ll be straight with you: I’d rather have the Nissan factory workshop manual on my rack. It’s the gold standard. But for a 50-year-old Datsun, good luck finding one in print. Haynes did a solid job here—they used Nissan technical illustrations and wrote procedures that a first-timer can follow. The manual acknowledges Nissan Motor Company for the drawings (page 3). That helps. But aftermarket manuals sometimes copy errors or omit a torque spec. I’ve found a few missing details in this one, like the specific grade of sealant for the oil pan gasket. Check the factory service bulletins if you can find them. The Automotive Industry Overview will show you how OEM documentation has evolved, but for a 1968–73 Datsun, this Haynes manual is the best you’ll get off the shelf. Automotive Industry Overview also compares aftermarket vs factory trends—worth a read if you care about accuracy.

Who Should Buy This Manual

This is for the home garage guy who owns a Datsun 510 or PL521 and wants to do their own oil changes, brake jobs, and maybe a ring-and-valve job. It’s not for a pro shop that bills $150/hour—I’d tell those guys to buy a factory microfiche. But if you’re on a Saturday budget and you’ve got a decent socket set, this manual will get you through. It assumes you have common tools: a torque wrench, a multimeter, a compression gauge. It doesn’t assume you have a lift or a machine shop. The writing is straightforward—no fluff, just “remove the four bolts, lift the carburetor, check the gasket.” That’s what you want.

Is this manual suitable for a beginner?

Yes, if you can read a torque wrench. It assumes no prior mechanic training.

Does it cover the PL521 pickup?

Yes, the PL521 li’l Hustler is fully covered—engine, brakes, suspension, body. Page 2 lists it as a separate model.

Are there wiring diagrams included?

There are basic wiring diagrams in the electrical section—enough to trace a 12V circuit for headlights, ignition, and starter. But they are not as detailed as a factory service manual. For the 1973 model, you may need to supplement with a factory supplement. The manual covers the 1968–1973 range, but the later years had minor electrical changes that aren’t fully drawn. I’d recommend using the diagrams as a starting point and verifying continuity with a multimeter. The fuse box layout is correct. If you need a full schematic, check the related Datsun 510 Workshop Manual mentioned earlier—that one has the dealer-level diagrams from the same era. The Haynes version will get you through a starter replacement or alternator swap without guesswork.

What about torque specifications for head bolts?

The manual lists the torque sequence and final torque in ft-lb. For the 1.6L, it’s a three-step process: 15, 35, then 50 ft-lb. Do not exceed 55 ft-lb or you risk thread stretch. The manual also covers cold-start adjustments.

If you are serious about keeping that Datsun on the road without turning a weekend job into a month-long headache, this manual belongs on your workbench. Don’t borrow your buddy’s copy—get your own, keep it greasy, and use it. Access the Factory Manual today.